Specialized 2009 mountain bikes and bits

By James Huang, technical editor

The revamped SX Trail platform sports more standover clearance and seatpost adjustment range along with improved performance in square-edged hits. (James Huang)

• You didn’t think we were only going to talk about the new Epic, did you? Now we wrap things up from Camp Tamarancho, California with more highlights of Specialized’s mountain bike and equipment lineup for 2009.

  Go big

  Last year’s popular SX Trail gets an all-new M5 alloy frame and four-bar rear suspension linkage that offers increased standover, more seatpost height adjustment, better square-edged bump performance and more progression at the end of the stroke for improved bottom-out resistance. Rear wheel travel stays at a versatile 170mm and in contrast to last year’s version, geometry is now fixed. A 100mm-travel version optimised for slalom and four-cross will be on hand as well.

  Not to be outdone by its shorter travel cousins, the new SX also receives a tapered-and-oversized 1 1/8”-to-1 1/2” front end and a clever shock mounting arrangement that eliminates wear at the rearmost DU shock bushing. Specialized fits the bottom bracket area with both a DMD front derailleur mount [mounts directly to the swingarm] and standard ISCG tabs to accommodate a wide variety of setups and, as usual, tosses in a healthy dose of cold forgings throughout for durability.

  Value-oriented riders also get a new BigHit for 2009 whose revised linkage arrangement provides similar improvements in standover clearance, seatpost adjustability and shock bushing wear as on the new SX. Travel on the four-bar rear end has been brought down a bit from 208mm (8.2”) to 191mm (7.5”) but the front end beefs up with a tapered-and-oversized head tube to accommodate the new crop of burly single-crown forks. As on the SX, the BigHit will also include DMD and ICSG mounts as well as fixed geometry.

  

  The new Big Hit also gets a new rear suspension layout that allows for lower standover heights and more seatpost adjustment than before.

  Changes at the mid-range for FSRxc and Myka platforms

  Trickle-down technology arrives at the FSRxc level for 2009 with an all-new M4 alloy frame that bumps up rear wheel travel to 120mm, thus moving it more into the trail bike category than last year’s 100mm-travel model. The rocker link-style arrangement bears strong resemblance to the premium Stumpjumper frame and provides the same benefits: more standover clearance, greatly increased seatpost height adjustment range and a lower centre of gravity for better handling. Riders living in muddier climes should also note that the rear shock is now shielded from debris kicked off of the rear wheel by a double-bent full-length seat tube.

  

  New for 2009 is a completely revamped FSR XC chassis which upgrades to the Stumpjumper's rocker link-type suspension layout and upgrades to 120mm of travel.

  The women’s-specific Myka receives the same revised chassis and suspension layout but travel remains at 100mm to better suit the segment’s typically shorter and lighter riders. As is the case with Specialized’s other D4W (Designs for Women) bikes, the Myka gets smaller and lighter tubing, women’s-specific geometry and segment-appropriate componentry.

  

  The women's-specific Myka gets the same basic suspension layout as the new FSR XC but sticks with 100mm which Specialized feels is more appropriate for the segment's typically shorter and lighter riders.

  Componentry offerings for 2009

  The Enduro SL platform will carry over essentially unchanged for 2009 but a few upgrades in componentry should improve reliability and versatility over last year. Specialized’s dual-crown E150 fork internals have been revised with fewer o-rings for easier (read: more reliable) assembly at the factory while a new telescoping Command Post will come as standard equipment on top models.

  

  The 2009 Enduro SL platform is essentially unchanged for 2009.

  The three-position Command Post will provide 35mm or 110mm of drop via a convenient bar-mounted remote and the internal mechanism uses a clever collet system developed by in-house suspension guru Mike McAndrews. Just a single 30.9mm size will be offered for now and total weight is pegged at around 430g. Pricing is yet to be determined but Specialized says its Command Post will be competitive with other similar products from Crankbrothers and Gravity Dropper.

  Gram-shaving is the name of the game for Specialized’s 2009 Roval Contrôle SL wheelset which sheds 40g courtesy of a new carbon-tubed front hub. Bladed straight-pull DT Aerolite spokes replace the standard Contrôle XC’s DT Revolution spokes, too. The Stan’s NoTubes-like M5 alloy rim carries over for easy tubeless compatibility while the quick release skewers have been upgraded to all-metal construction. Claimed weight for the pair is 1385g without skewers.

  Last year’s versatile Traversée wheelset carries over but yet another set of interchangeable end caps will now allow for compatibility with 15mm thru-axle forks. Likewise, the standard Contrôle XC Disc wheelset continues on for another year but Specialized will add a stealthy black finish to the palette for 2009.

  Most of the saddle lineup is mostly unchanged as well although the popular Alias will get a smoother stitch-free cover to reduce irritation. New to the lineup is the mountain bike-specific Format SL which uses a similar profile to last year’s Rival but with a more rounded rear profile for easier movement off the back and a cutout shell in the nose to relieve more pressure. Hollow titanium rails and lightweight foam padding bring the weight down as low as 230g.

  A few new treads

  Specialized will expand its healthy range of tread designs by three for the coming season and add key sizes to fill in missing gaps. The new Purgatory is the wet-and-loamy analogue to the Eskar with a meaty 2.2” casing width and open tread blocks designed to shed mud and debris. Similarly, the new downhill-specific Clutch is intended for wetter conditions with an aggressive open tread and soft 40a/42a dual compound rubber but will be available in even bigger 2.3” and 2.5” sizes. An optional SX casing will bring the weight of the Clutch down to a light (for downhill) 1000g.

  For the dirt jumping crowd, there’s a new Rhythm Lite with a low-profile and fast-rolling tread design. There will be just a single 2.3” casing size but it’s relatively light at 600g.

  New sizes for existing treads include 2.2” casing widths in both 26” and 29” diameters for the versatile Captain, a burly 29x2.3” Eskar, a more usable 26x2.0” SauserWind and 29” versions of the FastTrak LK. Conveniently, all of the new tyres for 2009 will be tubeless-ready.

  Covered from head to toe

  Off-road riders looking for a bit more protection can tap into a new Tactic helmet for 2009 which offers additional coverage around the base of the skull like last year’s Instinct but with a far more flattering shape and neatly integrated aFIX removable visor. Specialized also includes a vertically adjustable ProFit 270 retention system and InnerMatrix internal reinforcement structure all for just US$60 retail.

  

  The new Tactic helmet is just US$60 retail but sports a far more expensive-looking appearance.

  The rest of the lineup is mostly carryover including the top-end S-Works helmet which still weighs in at a near-record setting 200g or so. US-spec models are subject to tighter safety standards, though, and were beefed up last year as a result, adding about 20g as compared to other markets.

  On the optics front, the Roulette is essentially a women’s version of the Arcterra with a similar one-piece NXT lens and hingeless stainless steel frame but in a more stylish shape. On the other hand, the Strafe is more of a ‘lifestyle’ piece with its more casual look and road-oriented rose tint. Both continue to use Specialized’s NXT lens material (claimed to be stronger and more optically pure than polycarbonate) and are available in either in either Adaptalite photochromic or fixed tint versions.

  Last year’s popular Pro MTB shoe gets a complete overhaul with a full-length carbon plate and more aggressive outsole borrowed from the top-end S-Works model. The new Micromatrix synthetic upper gains an easier-to-use SL buckle as well as a synthetic heel cup liner for better hold, improved feel and reduced water retention. The men’s version will be offered in narrow, standard and wide widths and female riders will receive their own specific version as well.

  

  The Pro MTB shoe has been thoroughly revamped this year with a new upper and a new full-length carbon sole similar to the S-Works version.

  Winter is still a way off for most of the world but those planning on playing in the snow might want to take a look at Specialized’s new Defroster MTB shoe. Specialized claims the ankle-high Defroster is completely waterproof (it’s even sealed at the cleat inserts) and it’s also insulated. The injection-molded plate is fitted with a softer tread for use in colder temperatures, too, and unlike some other high-end offerings, the Defroster will be available in both whole and half sizes.

  Not to be overlooked is Specialized’s apparel lineup for 2009. The new BG Pro RBX chamois is thicker and larger for longer-distance riders while the BG Pro SL pad is intentionally lower profile and thinner for those that prefer less of a ‘diaper’ feel. Both are offer in men’s and women’s versions and use multi-thickness and multi-density padding.

  The corresponding RBX and SL shorts are also built with those rider types in mind; the RBX is constructed with heavier-weight fabrics while the SL uses lighter-weight materials, more mesh and lower-profile grippers at the leg openings.

  Off-road riders of all types also get a variety of baggy shorts, tops and even knickers.

  Specialized expands partnership with Susan G. Komen foundation

  Specialized pledged a minimum US$10,000 donation to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation last year through sales of a special-edition Propero helmet. For 2009, the company has expanded that commitment 25-fold to a quarter-million dollars and extended the range of offerings to gloves, saddles, shoes and even bikes.

  

  Specialized will expand its range of pink ribboned products to include bikes, shoes, gloves and other women's-specific gear. Ten percent of all applicable sales will be donated to the Komen foundation.

  Each of the special-edition products will feature unique colorways and graphics which, naturally, will incorporate the signature pink ribbon. Ten percent of all sales will be donated to the foundation.

Spring Tune Up Tips

If you don't ride in the winter, you've probably spent the winter months on the couch eating chips and watching television. Before you know it, spring will be here and a new season of mountain biking will begin. Even though your body may not be in shape, these tips will ensure that your bike is.

Before you take your bike out, check the wear and tear on your components and adjust them if its necessary. Start off with your chain. If you haven't replaced it in a year or more, it's time to do so. Over time, the individual parts in the chain will get worn out, increasing its effective length.

As this happens, the chain is no longer able to conform to the cog and the teeth of the chain ring,
so it wears those teeth out to fit the profile of the chain. If you can replace the chain before it stretches too much you'll save yourself from having to replace high priced cogs and chain rings.

Now, check the bearing surfaces. These include your bottom bracket, hubs, and the headset. Each of these should turn without a problem with no play in the system. Before checking the bottom bracket, make sure each cranking arm is snugged tight. Next, hold on to the crank arm (not the pedal) and wobble it back and forth. If you hear any clicking or if the crank arm binds, the bottom bracket needs to be adjusted.

Do the exact same thing with your hubs. Take the wheels off the bike, spin the hub axles, then feel for any free play or binding. If you feel play or binding, you need to make an adjustment. To check the headset, start off by putting the newly adjusted wheels back on the bike.

Now, grab the front brake and pull and push the handle bars back and forth. There shouldn't be any play. If you lift the front end off the ground, the fork should turn very smoothly. If it feels rough, it needs to be either adjusted or replaced.

While your looking, check the condition of your cables and housing. The cables should be rust free and the housing shouldn't be cracked or kinked. If you see any of this you should replace the offending device, as if you don't your shifting and braking will be sluggish.

Last, you should inspect your brake pads. Most pads will have ridges or indicator marks that will let you know when they need to be replaced. Brake pads that are worn out will comprimise both safety and braking efficiency.

Once you've got the tune ups out of the way, it's time to go for a ride. With your mountain bike running better than ever, all you have to do now is have fun!

Setting Your Tire Pressure

Riding your mountain bike with the appropriate amount of tire pressure can make a huge difference in how much control you have over your bike.

Setting your tire pressure too high will make for poor contact with the ground and also make your bike less controllable. Setting your tire pressure too low will make your tires unpredictable and also make them susceptible to pinch flats.

The appropriate amount of tire pressure in a mountain bike will vary between rider to rider and
tire setup to tire setup. The conditions of your trail and the type of terrain your riding will also
greatly impact what tire pressure you should be using in your tires.

The trick here is to find out exactly what mountain bike tire pressure works for you and your setup during normal conditions. After doing this, you can learn to adjust your pressure for different trails and types of terrain as needed.

You should start by finding a reliable pressure gauge or a pump with a pressure gauge. Then, use this same gauge or pump anytime you are making adjustments. A gauge can be very inaccurate, so if you switch around it you can make things much more difficult.

You should start with a higher pressure of around 40 - 50 psi. If you have a tubeless system, you should start lower, 30 - 40 psi. The more you weigh, the higher pressure you should start with. Try this pressure for a while and get a feel for how the tires take corners and loose dirt.

Drop the pressure by 5 psi in each tire and get a feel for how this new setup rides and how it compares to your previous setting. You should notice some improvement in stability, and if you don't, drop the pressure by another 5 psi.

You want to find the lowest pressure you can ride with without sacrificing pinch flat resistance. A pinch flat occurs when your tire rolls over an object then compresses to the point where the tire and the tube get pinched between the object and the rim on the wheel.

With tubeless tire systems, you can run much lower air pressure, as you don't have to worry about getting pinch flats. If you start to dent your rims, burp air out along the bead, or feel the tire roll under the rim during hard cornering, you've taken the pressure much too low.

Once you've found a comfortable setting for your tire pressure, learn what your tire feels like when you squeeze it with your hands. Once you know what your tires feel like you can always get the right air pressure - with any pump.

Mountain Biking Safety Tips

There are numerous ways that you can improve your mountain bike safety. Many riders will tell you that wearing a helmet is the most important step to staying safe. The second most important step is that you should always ride in control of your mountain bike.

By riding in control you'll not only prevent crashes, but keep others on the trail safe as well. When riding out of control you loose the ability to adjust to the terrain as you ride over it. This can and usually does result in serious injury to yourself and others.

Follow these helpful guidelines and you'll remain safe when riding your mountain bike.

Gear
Always make sure that you wear a helmet and other necessary safety gear for the conditions that you plan to ride in.

Never ride beyond your control
There is never any shame in walking the areas of the trail that you don't feel comfortable in riding and you should never let anyone else tell you that there is.

Keep your speed under control
Always make sure you keep your speed at a level where you can quickly adjust to any obstacles or change in the trail.

Knowing your trail
You should never push the limits on trails that you aren't familiar with. You should take trails you aren't familiar with at slow speeds until you learn them better.

Slow down around blind corners
If you can't see past a corner you should always slow down, as you never know who or what is around it.

Start small then go big
Work your way up to stunts or obstacles. Practice in less difficult or dangerous situations before you move up to something more dangerous.

Playing it smart
If you start to question what your doing, you probably shouldn't be doing. Always think about what you are doing and go with your instincts.

Mountain Bike Designs

The designs for mountain bikes can be classified in three categories based on suspension:

1. Hardtail - A frame with no rear suspension, often containing a front suspension fork.
2. Fully rigid - This is a sub type of hardtail, with a rigid fork.
3. Dual or full suspension - These bikes offer a front suspension fork and a rear suspension that are integrated into the frame.
4. Soft tail - Offers a frame with a small amount of rear suspension, normally less than a full suspension frame.
   

The different designs of bikes in mountain biking will offer you what you need for your unique style of riding. You'll want a different bike for different terrain, such as cross country or downhill. As the terrain changes, you'll want to make sure you have the right bike for the job.

Mountain biking is different than any other sport, offering you plenty of excitement and thrills.
If you are new to mountain biking, you'll find the different designs to be very enticing yet very challenging at the same time. Each design serves a purpose with mountain biking, even some that excel on the trails.

There are also several other designs which reflect on the manny challenging disciplines in the sport of mountain biking. No matter what type of mountain biking you like to do, there are bikes for that specific discipline.

If you are new to mountain biking, you'll want to check out the many designs and types of biking
before you purchase a bike. Mountain biking can be a lot of fun and excitement, although it can
also be very dangerous if you don't have the right bike for the terrain. Before you decide to buy a bike and hit the trails, make sure you have the right design of mountain bike for the riding you are planning on doing.

Introduction To Mountain Biking

Mountain biking is a great way to explore the outdoors, stay in shape, or just have fun. Racing down the side of a mountain is a lot of fun indeed, although it can also be quite dangerous. Even though it's dangerous, if you ride with caution, it can be enjoyed by the entire family.

Styles of mountain biking
Mountain biking can best be characterized into three different styles - downhill, free riding, and cross country. Even though the different styles are similar in some ways, they still require different skills. The style that you pick will determine the type of bike you get.

Locations for mountain biking
The sport can best be thought of as biking on an unpaved surface. Many areas throughout North America have specific locations designed for mountain biking. Before you decide to go down a trail, you should always check with your local park to get the routes, regulations, and any rules that they may have.

You can also find groups that have mountain bike rides and competitions. You can look on the internet or even in a local paper and see exactly what's available in your area. You may be able to find groups for the more advanced riders as well as beginners.

Becoming a great biker
Endurance and stamina are a must for a great mountain biker. It will also take ambition and practice to succeed as well as conquer the course. Like all other sports, it takes time and practice. Those just beginning will have to get past the bumps and bruises from falling off the bike.

Selecting your mountain bike
The bike you select is more of a personal choice, and a big determining factor on the type of riding you will be doing. Bikes come in all styles, shapes, and prices, which will make selecting one for yourself very difficult indeed.

You should use the internet to help you shop for a bike, even do some price comparisons online as well before you make a purchase. Before you buy a bike, always ask to try it out first. A great mountain biker will become one with his or her own bike. When buying, make sure you check for comfort, how it fits, even how it is geared.

Staying safe when riding
Mountain bike riding on unpaved roads can be very dangerous, as mentioned earlier. Anytime you are riding, you should wear a helmet, along with knee and elbow pads. If you are following a group or riding in the woods you should strongly consider a pair of goggles as well. Safety should be your top priority and never taken lightly anytime you are mountain biking.

How To Lube Your Mountain Bike

A mountain bike is a lot of fun although it does require some maintenance. You should always lube your bike 15 hours or so before riding, as quick jobs right before you take off normally doesn't get everything lubed. Some lube jobs will last for more rides, although if things get loud or shifting gets sticky, it's time to lube.

Here is how to lube your bike:

1. The chain
Apply a generous amount of mountain bike lube to your chain as you move the pedals around backwards. It also helps to find a spot to steady your hand such as the frame while you move the pedals around and around. Make sure you watch out for the cranks and chain rings as they move around.

2. Front Deraileur
On the front defaileur, lube the pivots. Use a spot of lube everywhere you can see movement when you move the shift lever.

3. Rear deraileur
Just like the front deraileur, lube the pivots.

4. Pedals
There are some types of clipless pedals that will need to have the release mechanism lubed. You
should only lube this mechanism if you have this type of pedal.

5. Everything into motion
Pedal around, shift your gears, and bounce your bike around. If you hear anything squeak, there's a moving part there are it should be lubed immediately.

6. Wipe it all clean
Once you've lubed everything and wiped it all around, simply wipe it all back off. Use a rag to wipe away all the lube you used, including all the lube off the chain. Wiping it away will leave the lube in between the parts but clean it away from everywhere it isn't needed. This will keep your bike from collecting dirt while you ride.

Framing Materials

The cost of a mountain bike frame is proportionate to its material, as well as the treatment that material has received. Currently, there are five types of material used in mountain bikes - high tensile steel, chromoly steel, aluminum, titanium, and carbon fiber. Oversized diameters, heat treating, and butting are tubing material treatments that will increase the cost of a frame as well.

High tensile steel
This is a very durable alloy that's found in lower priced mountain bikes. It offers a high carbon content which makes it less stiff than chromoly steel, so more materials are needed to make it stiff enough for bicycle frames, which will in turn make it that much heavier.

Relatively inexpensive to produce, you'll find this material in trail bikes, city bikes, and even entry level mountain bikes. There are some bikes that come with a chromoly seat tube, while the rest is high tensile steel.

Chromoly steel
Short for steel alloy, chromoly is best described by its major additives - chromium and molybdenum. This is probably the most refined framing material, giving over 100 years of dependable service.

Depending on the type of heat treating and butting, you can find this material in bikes as low as 400 dollars all the way up to 1,500 and beyond. The chromoly steel material offers very good durability and a compliant ride characteristic.

Aluminum
For the past 15 years, aluminum has been refined in pretty much the same way as chromoly. There have been various alloys developed, as well as heat treatment, oversizing, and butting. With dual suspension bikes, aluminum is the preferred material as it's the stiffest and most cost effective.

Aluminum is stiffer than chromoly, and therefore it will crack before chromoly. Of course, this depends on how you ride and how much abuse you give the frame. The advantages of aluminum is that the frame is very light and very stiff through oversizing or butting.

Titanium
Even thought it's somewhat exotic, the prices for this material have come down over the last few years. Frames made of titanium remain expensive because it takes longer to weld the tubes to the frame.

Titanium is considered an alloy, normally mixed with small amounts of vanadium and aluminum to give it better weldability and ride characteristics. More compliant than chromoly, it offers better fatigue and corrosion properties.

The material you choose for your bike, all depends on where you ride and what style you use. Almost all materials will last you for years, as long as you take care of your bike and treat the frame with some respect.

Different Types of Mountain Bikes

With mountain biking being a very popular sport, there are many bikes to choose from. Depending on what type of riding you like, the style of bikes you can choose from will vary. Below, you'll find tips on the different types of bikes available.

1. Cross country
Almost all mountain bikes will fit into this category. Cross country mountain bikes are light weight, making them easy to ride over most terrains, even up and down hills. This is the most common mountain bike and it can be used with ease for riding on the path or even commuting.

2. Downhill
These types of bikes are for serious bikers who crave the ultimate adventure. Downhill bikes have front and rear suspension, strong parts, and disc brakes. Rarely available off the shelf, most riders like to custom build their own.

3. Trials
Trail mountain biking involves a great degree of skill and is classified as the precision riding of
the sport. Similiar to downhill bikes, trial riders will often build their own bikes rather than purchase one off a shelf. Generally very light and very strong, these bikes require a lot of discipline.

4. Jump and slalom
Slalom and jump bikes are very strong and designed for jumping, street racing, and slalom. They offer a front suspension and use very strong components dedicated to what they do. These bikes are very popular with the sport of mountain biking.

Even if you are new to mountain biking, the sport can be a lot of fun. There are several bikes to choose from, all of which depend on your style. If you are still looking for the best style for you, all you have to do is try out several bikes and see which one suites you the best.

Clothes For Winter Riding

Mountain biking in cold weather has always been a challenge. The problem is that you'll start out cold then warm up and break a sweat, making yourself wet. Then, when you travel downhill, the combination of wet skin and windchill will be quite chilling.

Below, you'll find a list of the cold weather clothing that will make winter riding less of a bone chilling experience.

Booties
In cold temperatures, your feet are the most vulnerable part of your anatomy. Pressure from pedaling will tend to cut off the circulation to your toes, which can put you at a risk of frostbite. In cold conditions, neoprene booties are a must have. They will zip over your shoes and even have a pattern in the sole where you can cut out a piece for cleats.

Gloves
There are several manufacturers that make "lobster gloves", a hybrid glove that separates your index finger and thumb from the rest of your hand. These gloves are warmer than regular gloves, and the distinct index finger will allow you to operate your shifting and brake levers.

In case your hands get cold, you should carry a pair of lightweight glove liners will you as well. If you have to stop to take care of a problem, the liners will protect your hands from the cold.

Glasses
Glasses that wraparound and provide maximum protection from the wind are best to wear in the winter. You can protect yourself from debris, as well as the cold.

Socks
You should wear heavy socks although not to heavy. A sock that is overly heavy will make your shoes tight, cut off circulation, even make your feet cold. You should try lightweight socks, as they will keep your feet warm without bulk. If you need an extra layer, try silk ski socks as they are very warm and also extra lightweight.

Underwear
Polypropylene is the best material here, as it is lightweight and best for colder temperatures.

Wind protection
Moving air is the biggest cause for losing body heat. By having good wind protection you'll be able to vent perspiration while also protecting yourself from windchill. You should choose pants and a jacket based on durability, breathing, and price as these types of clothing can get very experience.

Helmet and liners
Your head is very important, as you lose 50% of your body heat through your head. A helmet is designed to keep you cool in the summer, not warm in the winter. A fleece liner inside your helmet will keep your head and ears warm during winter riding.

Beginner Mountain Bike Skills

Mountain biking is an exciting sport that can be enjoyed by anyone who knows how to ride a bike. Compared to the average bike ride, it does present some danger. Therefore, you should master these basic skills before you hit the trails or the dirt.

You can practice these beginning skills at a local park, school, bike path, or simply around your
house. If you can, try to find a location with a steep hill.

Get a feel for your pedals
Practice moving your foot away from the pedal, first while sitting on your bike with one foot on
the ground. Next, move on to releasing and replacing your foot while pedaling around for a bit. Those with toe clip and clipless type foot pedals will want to spend a bit more time practicing.

Sit and spin for position
Simply sit on your bike and pedal around. You should keep your arms slightly bent. You should
also adjust your seat height so your leg is 70 to 90 percent extended at the bottom of every stroke on the pedal. Keep your body relaxed, as there will never be a position where you should have either your knees or your elbows locked.

Shifting gears
Get a feel for shifting gears with your bike. The higher gears are harder to pedal and will go
faster while the lower gears are easier to pedal and will help you ascend hills. As you get to steeper hills, its best to shift before you get to the hill rather than while your on it.

Coasting
You should spend a bit of time coasting while standing on your pedals, without actually sitting
on the seat. Keep your arms bent but don't lock your knees. Now, try experimenting with shifting your body towards the rear end of the bike.

Pedal while standing
You should get as comfortable as you can with pedaling while standing on your bike. Try lifting
yourself off the seat while standing on the pedals, then crank them around. You should try this in higher gears on flat ground then again in lower gears while on a hill.

Dropping down a curb
Try finding a curb where you can easily get to the upper portion of it. Practice at a moderate speed, standing and coasting right off the curb from the upper level to the lower level. Try this at different speeds until it becomes second nature.

Once you practice these techniques and get the hang of them, you'll be able to hit the trails feeling comfortable on your mountain bike. Even though it may take some getting used to, it'll become second nature before you know it.